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Anyone here built a stoker 354 Hemi? I'm curious about the possiblities of adding .500" stroke (did have .250", brain f@%&) to the stock crank by having it welded and turned down. Any clearance issues in the block? I also assume I'm going to need custom pistons that are either .250" shorter or the wrist pin is moved up.

If you increase the crank stroke by .250, the piston will be raised .125 going up. The other .125 of the stroke will be on the down travel.
I think you would be just as well off if you were to offset grind the 354 crank journals , and use a custom bbc rod with sbc crank pin diameter.
If you were to have the crank welded, you would still have to buy rods and/or pistons.
From my experience, unless you need to have a stroker, you would probably be better off in the long run to just start with a 392.

TrWaters

TrWaters wrote:From my experience, unless you need to have a stroker, you would probably be better off in the long run to just start with a 392.

TrWaters

I figured I'd ask about stroking a 354 as I picked one up for very little. I agree, I'd rather have a 392, but for what 392 asking prices are these days the stroker 354 route would probably work out to be cheaper in my situation.

Looks like a 4.125" stroke (.500" increase) in a 354 will work just about perfectly with Mopar "B" engine (6.358") rods, not need custom pistons and be approx. at zero deck height. Rod ratio should be on the order of 1.54:1. Unless my calculations are off. I'm not sure if I'm figuring this correctly. Any input?

Scott:
We've built several 354 strokers. Due to the shorter rod length, I think it's a better set up than the 392. In addition, the 354/331 block is a stronger unit. We use a 4" stroke and stock length 354 rod. The block needs to be clearanced and custom pistons ordered.
Thanks for your effort on this site.
Bob Walker

I use a welded 4.25 inch crank in a 354 block with no problems. Stock magssaged rods and custom pistons. Very little clearancing with the rod modifications I use.