Need some help with Valve Covers

Discussion of the 331-354-392 HEMIs.

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NYer Mike
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:42 pm
Location: Woolwich Twp. NJ

Need some help with Valve Covers

Post by NYer Mike »

I have recently completed the modifications to my engine and I am in the process of dressing it out. I used ARP studs for the heads and valve train without realizing that the valve covers hit the top of the studs. I would like to reuse my original valve covers to defer the cost of new ones and have contemplated double gaskets. The double gaskets are not enough to clear the studs. I tried resetting the studs but they are in the bottomed out position. Has anyone ever had spacers made to keep the original valve covers? Are there other options other than new covers?
Thanks, Mike

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41hemi
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2003 7:35 pm
Location: Elkridge, Maryland

Post by 41hemi »

Is it actually the excess stud that sticks up past the nut? If so you should be able to trim them down even with the top of the nut without fear of losing any gripping power. Good luck! :lol:
41 Chevy with blown 330 Desoto / 32 Ford coupe with blown 392 Chrysler
Bailiesdad
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
Location: Maryland

Post by Bailiesdad »

see below
Last edited by Bailiesdad on Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bailiesdad
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
Location: Maryland

Post by Bailiesdad »

Bailiesdad wrote:That is a common problem when people over look the instructions for use and INSTALLATION of head studs. Some even install the studs them selves in the wrong location.

Also ARP is famous for incorrect length fastners. If you milled both the deck and the heads they may have to be custom made but very unlikely.

FIRST BOTTOM TAP ALL HOLES, THIS WILL ALLOW THE STUDS TO SCREW IN A FULL 2-3 MORE THREADS. The studs should bottom out after this is done..

If this does not solve the problem you got the wrong studs. (Many more do this buy purchasing used kits that the origional application is unknown.) If new return the ARP stuff and get Milodon. I have 3-4 spare sets if you need some.

PS: You can not space the valve covers up without getting longer sparkplug tubes. LONGER TUBES RUN 150-300 A SET.
NYer Mike
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:42 pm
Location: Woolwich Twp. NJ

Post by NYer Mike »

Both the deck and heads have been milled. All of the holes have been bottom tapped. The ARP stud lengths may be the primary issue. The studs are located in the proper position realtive to length.

I used studs in lieu of bolts for reliability. Torquing a stud is a single axis function of stress. Bolts have to deal with two forms of stress to reach their intended loading. The stretching and twisting of bolts for loading increases the likely hood of failure and or fatigue. Also, due to the twisting moment and stretching, bolts are not as uniform with loading as studs are.

I was hoping to keep the original valve covers for the logo purposes only. I will contact HotHeads in the near future for new covers.

I just hate the idea of breaking apart / replacing the studs on this engine. When I bought my car the engine was apart in pieces. The car was in storage for 46 years in that condition and this is the first time since '58 it has been back together.

Thanks for the info and offer.

Regards,
Mike
Bailiesdad
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
Location: Maryland

Post by Bailiesdad »

What are the total lengths of the two different studs? Different covers will still probably hit them if they are too long.
hemi4t
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Location: Hartland, Michigan

Post by hemi4t »

I had the same problem with mine using studs. If you already bottom tapped the mounting holes then you need to cut the studs down or get the hotheads covers they have plenty of clearence for the studs but you lose the original look when doing so. Make sure you have a mearsurement from the valve cover mounting surface to the top of the stud to make sure the hothead covers will work. bob Walker will know for sure if you have that dimension.
Bailiesdad
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
Location: Maryland

Post by Bailiesdad »

"Are there other options other than new covers"

Yes, thicker head gaskets. Add the amount decked and milled to .040 and order that thickness gasket or stack copper gaskets.
NYer Mike
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:42 pm
Location: Woolwich Twp. NJ

Post by NYer Mike »

I measured the bolt lenghts from the milled surfade of the rocker shaft stand support point and found the following:
Driver Side:
Intake Shaft Bolts: 3 3/32" to 3"
Exhaust Shaft Bolts: 3 17/32" to 3 15/32"
Passenger Side:
Intake Shaft Bolts: 2 31/32" to 2 29/32"
Exhaust Shaft Bolts: 3 7/16" to 3 11/32"
The dimensions have the same deltas between high and low, but the cylinder head tappings are different between heads. I will use this info to confirm the new valve cover clearances w/ the folks at HotHeads.

I tried a double gasket (3/8") and the studs still foul the valve cover. Plus, I have to watch the spark plug tube lengths also.

Thanks for the help and ideas.

Regards,
Mike
392heminut
Posts: 488
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2002 2:16 pm

Post by 392heminut »

I ran into this same problem, and after I torqued the heads down I pulled each stud out one at a time and ground it down so it was flush with the nut when retorqued. I also went to the hardware store and got ten thinner grade 8 nuts to replace those on the exhaust side. This gave me the clearance to use the stock valve covers with one gasket. The exhaust side row of studs has the most clearance problems.
Owner of the Poor Man's Hemi Cuda
Bailiesdad
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
Location: Maryland

Post by Bailiesdad »

OAL length of long correct length MILODON stud 8.375, 1/2-20X1.25, 1/2-13X1.25, these are the ones I use on all early Hemi engines I use head studs on.

Pull one of yours and measure it you will find out YOUR stud is TOO LONG. GET THE CORRECT LENGTH STUDS.


I did it for you, ARPs are 8.500. Arp frequently packages fasterners in their prepackaged kits the incorrect length. :D
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