I just took delivery of a cherry 1956 354.
It's been fitted with steel,4-bolt splayed caps (center 3),line bored,& honed,decked & o-ringed.Its been sitting for about 2 years,but its still a very nice piece.
Im looking for the torque specs on the mains.
This would include all ten of the center studs,& the six angled 3/8" cap screws.
Thanks,
Troy
4-Bolt Main Cap Torque Specs
Moderators: scottm, TrWaters, 392heminut
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Troy Cagle
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 3:45 pm
- Location: California
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Bailiesdad
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2001 6:00 pm
- Location: Maryland
Probably Milodon caps, are there bolts with side bolts, studs with side bolts, or allen all the way?
Are they stock main cap bolts/allen side bolts, studs/12/6 pt head bolts or after market counter sunk allen bolts/allen side bolts?
Stock bolts are one figure, Milodon studs/bolts are another, and Arp are yet another figure. Some of the older conversions had grade 10 allen head fastners also. All worked well.
Torque on main bolts/studs vary from 80-140 side 25-40. Try and figure out exactly what the fastners are and post it, then the figures can be supplied.
A good clear picture of them posted would help determine the type of fastners.
If all else fails:
If they were installed and never removed a good way to tell is reverse a click torque wrench and start at 80 and start to break them loose, when the wrench stops clicking, note the torque required to break them loose. Start at 25 on the sides and it will tell the same. (Then stamp the block)
Most good machine shops stamp the numbers somewhere along the rail also, check there FIRST.
Are they stock main cap bolts/allen side bolts, studs/12/6 pt head bolts or after market counter sunk allen bolts/allen side bolts?
Stock bolts are one figure, Milodon studs/bolts are another, and Arp are yet another figure. Some of the older conversions had grade 10 allen head fastners also. All worked well.
Torque on main bolts/studs vary from 80-140 side 25-40. Try and figure out exactly what the fastners are and post it, then the figures can be supplied.
A good clear picture of them posted would help determine the type of fastners.
If all else fails:
If they were installed and never removed a good way to tell is reverse a click torque wrench and start at 80 and start to break them loose, when the wrench stops clicking, note the torque required to break them loose. Start at 25 on the sides and it will tell the same. (Then stamp the block)
Most good machine shops stamp the numbers somewhere along the rail also, check there FIRST.
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Troy Cagle
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 3:45 pm
- Location: California